In Bhutan, Chili Is a Vegetable

Imagine sitting down to lunch in Bhutan. There's a generous helping of rice, perhaps some vegetables, and a bowl of green chilies swimming in melted cheese.

You might assume the chilies are there to season something else.

They aren't.

In Bhutan, chili is a vegetable, and one of the country's most beloved dishes consists largely of chilies cooked in cheese. It's called ema datshi, and understanding it is a good introduction to how Bhutan approaches food.

It may also require reconsidering what constitutes a reasonable serving of chili.

Meet ema datshi

The name is refreshingly straightforward. Ema means chili, and datshi means cheese.

Fresh green chilies or dried red ones are simmered with Bhutanese cheese, sometimes with onions, tomatoes or a little butter. The result is a rich, warming dish in which the chilies are the main ingredient, not a garnish or an afterthought.

Ema datshi is widely regarded as Bhutan's national dish, although calling it a national dish almost makes it sound too ceremonial. This is everyday cooking, found in homes, local restaurants and on dining tables across the country.

Recipes vary. Some are thick and creamy, others have a thinner sauce. Some cooks prefer fresh green chilies, while others favor dried red ones. The amount of heat depends on the chilies, the cook and, occasionally, how much consideration is being given to the person about to eat them.

And there is nearly always rice.

Bhutanese red rice, with its slightly nutty flavor and pleasantly substantial texture, is a particularly good companion. It gives the cheese and chilies something to cling to and helps balance their intensity.

The combination is simple, satisfying and unmistakably Bhutanese.

A country that takes its chilies seriously

Travel through Bhutan and you'll discover that chilies aren't confined to the kitchen.

In the fall, red chilies are spread across rooftops, laid out in courtyards or hung near windows to dry. Against whitewashed walls and traditional wooden buildings, the bright red harvest is difficult to miss.

Drying allows families to preserve chilies for the colder months, when fresh produce is less readily available. It's a practical tradition that also happens to make some wonderfully colorful scenery.

At local markets, chilies appear in an impressive variety of shapes and colors. Fresh green chilies sit alongside bright red ones and baskets of dried chilies ready for cooking. They aren't merely a small basket of seasoning tucked beside the vegetables. They are an important part of the vegetable trade.

For travelers exploring Bhutan by bicycle, these details are part of the pleasure of being out on the road. A market stop, a village lunch or chilies drying on a farmhouse roof offers another glimpse into everyday life in Bhutan.

And they may give you a clue about what's coming for dinner.

Cheese has a few other friends

Once you've encountered ema datshi, you'll start noticing other dishes sharing the same family name.

Kewa datshi combines potatoes and cheese, often with a little chili added. It's generally a gentler introduction for visitors who aren't accustomed to quite so much heat.

Shamu datshi uses mushrooms, bringing an earthy flavor to the familiar cheese sauce. Depending on the cook, chilies may still make an appearance.

The common thread is datshi, the cheese that gives these dishes their rich, comforting character. Traditional versions use locally made dairy products, with flavors and textures that vary from place to place.

So if the prospect of a bowlful of chilies seems a little ambitious, there are other ways to discover why Bhutanese cooks are so fond of cheese.

Although you shouldn't be surprised if someone adds a few chilies anyway.

How hot is hot?

For someone who enjoys spicy food, Bhutan can be a delight. For someone who considers black pepper adventurous, the first encounter with ema datshi may require a little negotiation.

But here's something worth knowing: the chilies commonly used in ema datshi are often considerably milder than their fiery reputation might suggest. They're eaten as vegetables partly because their flavor and heat make that possible.

That doesn't mean every bowl is predictable.

Chili heat varies between varieties, and even individual chilies of the same variety, sometimes growing on the same plant, can deliver surprisingly different levels of heat. The cook may know exactly what went into the pot. What comes out can still contain a little mystery.

The sensible approach is to start with a modest helping, enjoy it with rice and see where things go.

There's no prize for finishing the hottest bowl on the table. At least, none that we've heard about.

Discovering Bhutan, one meal at a time

Bhutan has plenty to occupy a traveler's attention: mountain roads, terraced valleys, monasteries perched above rivers and dzongs that seem to grow directly out of the hillsides.

But the country also reveals itself over lunch.

The chilies drying beside a village house, the vegetables in a market, the local cheese bubbling in a kitchen and the conversations that develop around a shared meal are all part of the experience.

On a cycling journey, you have time to notice these things. The road takes you through the countryside where food is grown and into the communities where it is prepared and enjoyed.

It's one of the pleasures of exploring Bhutan on our Bike Across Bhutan tour: the chance to experience the country beyond its famous landmarks.

And sooner or later, someone will offer you ema datshi.

Take a little rice, add a spoonful of chilies and cheese, and give it a try.

You might discover a new favorite.

Or you might discover that Bhutan's idea of a vegetable comes with considerably more excitement than you're accustomed to.