French Polynesia, One Island at a Time

A small fishing boat pulls up to the dock beside a restaurant on Bora Bora.

We’re sitting at a table in the restaurant’s sand-floored bar, enjoying lunch, when the chef comes outside to meet the fisherman. There’s a freshly caught yellowfin tuna aboard, and the two men have some business to conduct.

Before long, the fish is on the scale. Forty kilograms.

The chef buys it, the fisherman heads off, and we return to our lunch with a pretty good idea of what might be on the dinner menu that evening.

Buying fish directly from local fishermen is common practice at many island restaurants. What was unusual was our group happening to be there at precisely the right moment to watch the transaction. It’s one of those everyday island encounters that stays in the memory.

Three Islands, Three Personalities

Our Taste of Polynesia cycling journey visits Mo’orea, Huahine and Bora Bora over nine days, traveling between the islands by ferry and exploring their coastal roads by bicycle. Each island has its own character.

Mo’orea is wonderfully dramatic, with jagged volcanic peaks rising above the lagoon and two great bays cutting into the island’s northern coastline. Huahine is greener and more rural, with small villages, agricultural land and a strong connection to traditional Polynesian culture.

Bora Bora, of course, is famous around the world for its spectacular lagoon and luxury resorts. But beyond the scenery, all three islands are places where people live, work, shop, go to school and carry on with their daily lives. Bicycles are a very pleasant way to explore that side of the islands.

The Road Around Mo’orea

Our journey begins with a ferry ride from Tahiti to Mo’orea, a short crossing that takes us away from Papeete’s busy streets and into a very different landscape.

The mountains seem to rise straight out of the lagoon, and as we approach the ferry terminal, the island’s villages and coastal roads come into view. We collect our bicycles and ride toward Cook’s Bay, where we’ll spend the next few nights.

The coastal road follows the shoreline, passing homes, small shops, gardens and occasional stretches where the lagoon opens up beside us. Inland, the mountains provide a spectacular backdrop. There’s time to explore, stop for photographs and enjoy the scenery without feeling obliged to turn the ride into a race.

Mo’orea also offers opportunities to venture into the interior, where ancient marae and panoramic viewpoints reveal more of the island’s history and geography. And when the cycling is finished, the lagoon is waiting.

Huahine’s Quieter Side

Huahine feels different almost as soon as we arrive. The island is less developed for tourism than Mo’orea or Bora Bora, and its villages and rural roads have a relaxed atmosphere.

Near Lake Fa’una Nui, we visit traditional stone fish traps, an ingenious system that has used tidal movements to catch fish for more than 400 years and remains in use today. Nearby stands Marae Manunu, an ancient ceremonial site thought to be more than 500 years old. Together, these places offer a glimpse of Huahine’s history long before European explorers reached the islands.

Our cycling takes us through the island’s villages and countryside, with time to enjoy the beaches and lagoon as well. There’s even a day without a scheduled ride, giving guests the freedom to go snorkeling, join a lagoon excursion, take another spin on their bikes or simply relax.

Sometimes the most sensible activity in French Polynesia is no activity at all.

A Ferry Is Part of the Experience

Traveling between islands by ferry is another pleasure of the journey. The boats carry island residents, visitors, bicycles, scooters, luggage and the occasional unexpected household item.

On the longer crossing toward Bora Bora, we pass through the beautiful lagoon shared by Raiatea and Taha’a. The ferry makes brief stops at both islands, usually just long enough for passengers and their baggage to come and go.

There’s a little activity on the dock. A few bicycles or scooters, people greeting friends and relatives, and occasionally something unexpected, like a washing machine being transported between islands. For us, it’s an excuse to stand on deck, enjoy the scenery and watch the ordinary business of island travel.

Then Bora Bora appears ahead. Even after visiting the island many times, that first view of its extraordinary volcanic peaks is difficult to tire of.

A Different Side of Bora Bora

Bora Bora’s coastal road makes a relatively short circuit of the island, which suits our relaxed approach to cycling. We ride through villages and past local homes and shops, stopping to enjoy views across the lagoon toward the surrounding motus.

One of our stops is a small pareo workshop, where colorful fabric designs are created using tie-dyeing and sun exposure. It’s a chance to see local craftspeople at work and perhaps pick up a gift for family or friends back home.

There are plenty of souvenir shops in French Polynesia, but visiting a place where the designs are actually made adds something to the experience.

And then there are the little encounters that nobody could put on an itinerary, like a fisherman arriving beside a restaurant with a freshly caught yellowfin tuna. We can’t arrange moments like that. They happen when they happen, and occasionally we’re lucky enough to be there.

Island Time

Nine days pass surprisingly quickly when they’re divided among three beautiful islands. There are ferry crossings, coastal rides, village stops, cultural sites, lagoon swims and plenty of opportunities to enjoy local food.

The scenery is every bit as spectacular as the photographs suggest. But some of the most enjoyable memories come from smaller things: a friendly greeting outside a home, a workshop producing colorful pareos, the comings and goings at a ferry dock.

And, every now and then, a very large fish.